Fisho's Queensland Adventure - Part TwoThe rental car place sent a minibus to pick me up. My illness was temporarily forgotten as we rocketed down the Captain Cook Highway past sugar cane and pineapple plantations on either side, brackish brown creeks and mangrove thickets with the most fantastically gnarled roots. Unfortunately, the idyll came to an abrupt end upon arrival at East Coast Car Rentals.
This mob advertises the lowest rates in Queensland, from $27 per day (asterisk included, of course). I'd done the booking online and was expecting to be charged $96 all up. However, the bloke behind the desk informed me that because my Visa card was a debit Visa as opposed to a real live credit card, there would be a five percent surcharge. 'Now,' he went on encouragingly, 'you haven't requested any insurance. What if you have an accident and it's YOUR FAULT? With our premium package it's only twenty-one dollars a day and you only have to pay $200 excess if you crash it.' I hadn't requested insurance because I hadn't wanted any. My driving may be slightly erratic but I always have confidence in myself even if no one else does (my mother likes to hang on to the Jesus bar at all times when I'm behind the wheel, which I find quite offensive). However, looking out at the unfamiliar Cairns cityscape, I had to admit that insurance was probably a good idea, particularly as I'd have to pay about three times what the car was actually worth if I totalled it. The thing that pissed me off was that instead of forking out $42 on the premium package, I could have got the basic third-party insurance for a fraction of this, which was all I really wanted anyway. But I didn't find this out until afterwards. Bloody car hire people - they're no different from used-car salesmen. Caution should be the watchword when interacting with these beings.
The bloke then took an imprint of my Visa card - 'just in case you decide to turn the car into spare parts,' he chuckled. 'I wouldn't know how,' I replied, mentally adding,
And if I was going to rook you, I wouldn't do it in a three-door Hyundai Getz, I'd rent the bloody Hummer.Long story short, I ended up paying $148 or something for two days' car hire and then waiting an hour while they worked out how to fit a baby seat into the vehicle. I grew rather impatient and began making outraged-looking faces while tapping my foot, crossing my arms and generally acting like an uptight bitch to make them feel uncomfortable. Of course, my facade was completely ruined the minute I got behind the wheel. I'd forgotten the bloody car was a manual and I hadn't driven one since I'd sold my old Daewoo Lanos a year ago. I lurched out of the parking bay and screeched off down Sheridan St, leaving part of my front tyre on the pavement and a gaggle of East Coast Car Rental minions smirking in my rear vision mirror.
I am glad that Luke is only six months old because he will never remember the dreadful outburst of language I used as I tried to remember which pedal was the clutch and which one was the brake. For some reason I felt that it was necessary to do my remembering with the accelerator pressed to the floor. We left some more tread at the first set of traffic lights - 'Oooh, this looks promising, let's turn left, aaaaargh, pedestrian, AAAAARGH, RED LIGHT!' (screeching noise, then rapid acceleration) 'Well, we got out of that one, Lukey. I think I've got the hang of this car now, I'll go a bit faster. Wheeeee - aaaaargh, roundabout!'
We parked on the Esplanade with the intention of taking a leisurely stroll up to the Lagoon - a great man-made swimming pool right on the waterfront, with these cool giant fish fountains sticking up out of it. I reckon half the population of Cairns was there that afternoon. And this is disgusting, but at that moment I was glad that for the past couple of days I'd been vomiting and unable to eat, because it was like bloody Baywatch out there. I'm not the most self-conscious person, but it's hard
not to be when you're surrounded by hundreds of beautiful bronzed effigies - I was already as white as a ghost compared to everyone, but thanks to the gastro I didn't have to worry about cellulite jodhpurs in addition.
(haha sorry, I know that's revolting. Womanspeak at its worst.)
There were some roadside markets to browse through, but I was beginning to feel like a wilted leaf of lettuce from the sun and humidity, so we didn't stay too long. We walked back up the Esplanade; I took a few photos of the frangipani, the boats in the harbour and the war memorial; we stopped at a cafe where I fed Luke and managed to choke down a timbal of avocado and Moreton Bay Bugs, which I would have found delicious at any other time. Still, at least I didn't vomit it up again - I imagine avocado is one of those things that taste worse coming back up. (Incidentally, paddle pops, ginger ale and grapes are the most tolerable foods to regurgitate, while tacos, laksa and parmesan cheese rank among the worst. If you're sick to your stomach, mung on the grapes, you'll be glad you did.)
I'd wanted to drive up the coast to visit Port Douglas, which I remembered vaguely as having a beautiful sandy beach where Luke and I could chill out for an hour or so, but the bloody incompetent car people had taken so long about installing the baby seat that it was beginning to get late. So I decided to head for Yungaburra instead, albeit the long way around. Instead of going up the Gillies Range via Gordonvale, which would have taken approximately an hour, I intended to drive up through the touristy market town of Kuranda, then across the Tablelands to Mareeba. I had no map; I only knew that Kuranda was up the Kennedy Hwy and that Mareeba was apparently up there also, from reading a road sign. After Mareeba I had no idea, but I was feeling adventurous and I was confident that I'd find my way somehow.
Everyone has at least one talent; some people have multitudes of them. I have two. One is that I can write a good story and the other is that I have a compass in my head. I've never been lost in my life, including the first time I went across the United States in a truck and was asked to navigate the trip from Georgia to New York. I often find myself in strange places or on unknown roads, but I always get to where I'm going, and I generally do it without a map.
We got to Kuranda after a steep twisting drive through the rainforest, but didn't stay long as the bloody markets had just closed. By now I was knackered and decided that I'd just drive straight through to Yungaburra and come back and visit all the places the next day. I wanted BED.
Queenslanders are mad bastards on the road! You know how when you drive on the Southern Expressway, no matter how fast you're going there's always the ubiquitous VS Commodore that rips straight past at 170kph? ALL of the cars I encountered in the Atherton Tablelands were like that. I wasn't about to join them - I didn't know the road, and I had bubs in the back seat - and it was quite harrowing having them up my arse with nowhere to pull over. But I still found time to enjoy the scenery. We'd left the rainforest behind and the bushland was now more like something you'd see around Piccadilly or the Onkaparinga valley. It was subtly different, though, and it took me a while to put my finger on why: all of it, the long grass, the bright furrows of red earth dotted amongst the trees, the thick stands of eucalyptus, it was just so lush and vibrant. The leaves on these trees had never been dimmed by months of accumulated dust; their trunks had never been scorched by bushfire. I
will get those photos up soon, I promise.
A stranger sight was the weird lumpish little monoliths dotted at intervals along the road - my first thought was, 'Oh look, a giant turd' but in fact they were termite mounds. Once I realised what they were I pulled over and took half a dozen photos - I mean, not that a piece of poo that size wouldn't be similarly unusual, but you'd get over it pretty quickly, wouldn't you? Whereas termite mounds are quite fascinating when you think about the whole building process.
By the time I reached Mareeba, a good sixty-odd kilometres out of Cairns, I was beginning to worry a little bit. I had not seen a single sign to Yungaburra and for all I knew, I was heading right past it and into the wilderness. I would run out of petrol and have to live in a termite mound with only half a packet of Starbursts for nutrition. The highway split into a T-junction up ahead; I turned off to Atherton and hoped for the best. There were plenty of signs along the way but none of them made any reference to Yungaburra and at least seventy percent of them were ads for Atherton McDonald's. (Bloody hell. A stone's throw from some of the nation's best seafood - I passed at least five fresh fish retailers on the highway out of Cairns - and all we bloody want is that junk. Ever seen what a Big Mac beef patty looks like before it's cooked? It's all red and furry. I know because I worked at Macca's for two years.)
Atherton was like any country town in Australia, no different from Mt Gambier or Ararat or the like. By now I was too exhausted to notice anything distinctive about it. I was delighted, however, to see a sign for Yungaburra, just twelve kilometres away! I gunned it out of there, driving exuberantly over the roundabout in the process, and was at my final destination within five minutes.
You bloody ripper!!
(Part Three to follow - what happened when I realised I would be staying in a room with no lock, no powerpoint and at least thirty drunk foreign guys; a fantastic first night with good food, good company and a yodelling accordion band (I s*** you not); and the arrival of Luke's first teeth.)