SA Footy

howdy
on sunday my reverse cycle split airconditioner stopped blowing cold air and when the bloke came today to fix it he told me the condenser needed replacing... how much should I have expected to pay for this job? (he who used to help me with this stuff can no longer impart his knowledge
) i think the price that i was charged was a little steep but am not sure about these types of things. btw think the job may have taken one hour tops

Cutter, forget the cost.

Was it fixed,?

Try not looking for bad my friend.

Go Forward..

It is a disposable world.

In most cases you would throw it away, its cheaper to re-new the old against getting it repaired.

You done well...

& it is fixed before tomorrows & thursdays scorcher

Yes, I know I was lucky to get it fixed before the next couple of days... was just askin' is all

I don't have current figures, but when that happens it can be anything from a leaky seal and needing a new seal and re-gas to a failed major component like the condenser. Prices charged are based on "what he market will bear" rather than real cost so you need to get quotes and let them know you are getting quotes - I got a 30% reduction on my gutter guard installation that way. However, that takes time, and in your situation you were probably better off paying over the odds - if you did - to have it repaired in time for the next few days.

Incidentally, the guy I gave the job of installing my ducted system steered me away from an Inverter - on the grounds that when the Inverter circuit goes it will cost lots to replace and their life is about 2 years in average operating conditions. His argument is that firms tend to sell you an overpowered unit which instead of running almost continually will cut in and out frequently, which burns more electricity. Inverter circuits are then used to offset this high electricity use at start up, but taking that load then causes them to fail after a while. The system he put in for me cost me less than half my first quote and is working fine. I took the punt on him because he was the only one who spent time while quoting explaining where vents should go and why, instead of just asking me where I wanted them, and went into the details about how the systems work with me - he used to be an Engineer in Belgium.

Thanks Psyb

Lunchcutter I have had a similar issue although with another part and also fel I paid too much. I think we need to roll with the punches and say it was fixed in good time and I did not sweat the 43 degrees as I could have.

Mine just cost $200 for the repair guy to change the little 10 amp glass fuse I told him kept blowing, yes he got it working, no he didnt fix job as 3 days later it blew again. So I went up in roof replaced fuse with bigger 15 amp (that was 43degDay) so far so go but there still remains a problem.

TroyGFC wrote:Mine just cost $200 for the repair guy to change the little 10 amp glass fuse I told him kept blowing, yes he got it working, no he didnt fix job as 3 days later it blew again. So I went up in roof replaced fuse with bigger 15 amp (that was 43degDay) so far so go but there still remains a problem.

i'll only charge you $150....

TroyGFC wrote:Mine just cost $200 for the repair guy to change the little 10 amp glass fuse I told him kept blowing, yes he got it working, no he didnt fix job as 3 days later it blew again. So I went up in roof replaced fuse with bigger 15 amp (that was 43degDay) so far so go but there still remains a problem.

Yes, absolutely, you've just compromised circuit protection by installing the wrong fuse.

dedja wrote:

TroyGFC wrote:Mine just cost $200 for the repair guy to change the little 10 amp glass fuse I told him kept blowing, yes he got it working, no he didnt fix job as 3 days later it blew again. So I went up in roof replaced fuse with bigger 15 amp (that was 43degDay) so far so go but there still remains a problem.

Yes, absolutely, you've just compromised circuit protection by installing the wrong fuse.

Hopefully, the electrician used at least 20 amp capacity wiring...
But it is a worry that it is apparently drawing more current than it is supposed to do.
I suppose it is possible the motor is over capacity and turning off and on more often thus shortening fuse life with frequent high start up currents in short bursts.

We once had a cooker that kept blowing the 10 amp switch on its down draft exhaust fan in the middle of the unit.
It turned out it was getting too hot from the adjacent hot plates and the increased resistance that resulted lowered its amperage tolerance.
Replacing it with a 15 amp switch worked.